How To Shop Vintage Like A Vogue Editor Online

How To Shop Vintage Like A Vogue Editor Online

The best advertising campaigns make you want to be the woman on the billboard. In 2013, I wanted to be Daria Werbowy in a pink roll top bath, naked except for a necklace and rhinestone bracelets, in Céline’s spring campaign.

I especially dreamed about that sparkly choker for months, although it was hugely prohibitive – over £2,000 – from my peanut salary as a fashion reporter. Years later, when creator Phoebe Philo announced she was leaving the brand in 2017, the necklace came back to mind. Curious to see if I could track down one, I hit Google. Fifteen minutes later I had dug up a German seller on the French resale website Vestiaire Collective, who was willing to part with theirs for £481.37, complete with dust bag and original box. Reader, I bought it. And then I bragged about it. “It’s Spring/Summer 2013,” I told admirers who asked about the necklace’s origins on a… Fashion party.

There was a time when designer items from the past season were pushed to the back of the wardrobe or gifted to willing recipients after their moment in the spotlight. Pre-loved, pre-worn, used, second-hand and resale clothing and accessories couldn’t be more desirable. “Vintage” is the term that encompasses all bases, although it makes the aficionados shudder: technically it should only be applied to clothing made between the past 20 and 99 years. Either way, today’s second-hand market has clearly evolved from the two categories that “vintage” used to denote: an acid-free, fabric-wrapped couture dress on one side, bought at an auction house, or a mothball-scented slip dress found at a flea market stall on the other. the other side.

Céline earrings


Common locker room

Celine baroque bracelet


Common locker room

For starters, the much-loved items that today’s smartest shoppers are looking for are often not that old. And the hunt doesn’t take place in cavernous warehouses or auction houses, but online. Today’s well-dressed fashion fans are scoring gently used Alaïa dresses at The RealReal, once-worn Bottega Veneta Cassette bags at Vestiaire Collective, vintage Chanel bouclé jackets at Hewi and second-hand Hermès Birkins at Collector Square. They buy sold-out BNWT (“bought new with tags”, in internet language) Zara leggings on Depop and pre-owned Jean Paul Gaultier Cyber ​​​​​​Dots mesh tops on eBay. They head to StockX for nearly new Dior Air Jordans and Chrono24 for occupied Cartier Tanks, and make a short detour to Dotte for Mini Rodini scraps for their kids.

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Alaïa vintage maxi dress

Alaïa vintage mini dress

They also sell. After all, their original Spring/Summer 2000 Dior saddle bag has been worth a pretty penny since Maria Grazia Chiuri re-released it in 2018 – making it far too lucrative to pass on to a daughter.

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Christian Dior 2004 second hand Trotter Saddle shoulder bag


Farfetch Second Life

Dior Saddle cloth handbag


Common locker room

“People’s sense of ownership has changed,” says Rachel Reavley, a former Fashion staffer and board member at Hewi, a family-run, UK-based resale site with particularly affluent clients. (Hewi is short for Barely worn; more than 30 percent of the inventory on the site has never been worn.) “If you’ve experienced shopping in a luxury re-commerce space, your customer’s expectations become real. higher. Then you start looking at things in your wardrobe and you think: am I ever really going to wear those Dior boots again? You go online and as long as you take care of them, they have their value. It’s a win-win situation – you have the financial reward, the feel-good factor of participating in the circular economy. Then you might buy something else, and it feels guilt-free.”

Reselling is big business. According to a report by GlobalData and ThredUp, the second-hand market is expected to double in the next five years and grow 11 times faster than the broader retail clothing sector to £67 billion. Why the boom? It must be said that women have been buying beloved fashion for decades; as early as 1928, for example British Fashion advertised 22 second-hand clothing dealers who could be confident of discreetly discarding last season’s Chanel suit. But the key word there is “discreet”.

Bottega Veneta Cassette Bag


Common locker room

Image may contain: Accessories, Accessory, Handbag, Bag and Wallet

Bottega Veneta Cassette Bag


Common locker room

Gen Z, who are mainly driving the growth in frugality, are more likely to brag about their finds on social media than to keep the item’s second-hand status a secret. “From the research we did in collaboration with Depop, if you analyze the youngest generation, they no longer have that stigma,” said Claudia D’Arpizio, luxury goods guru at management consultancy Bain & Company. “Obviously they also buy a lot of first-hand products. But I think the stigma was more on earlier generations.”

Chanel Spring/Summer 1993.


Chanel Spring/Summer 2022.

go runway

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Chanel ecru curly tweed jacket


Hardly ever worn

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Chanel studded black bouclé tweed jacket


Hardly ever worn

After all, avoiding the brand new is cheaper and less intimidating (in the case of luxury items) than going to Bond Street in London or Madison Avenue in New York, and more sustainable: according to a report by Farfetch, buying a second-hand item on average saves 1 kg waste, 3,040 liters of water and 22 kg of CO2, compared to a new article.

Then there’s the thrill of the chase. As Camille Charrière, journalist and influencer with an Instagram following of more than 1.2 million, and who regularly shops resale platforms for items from the past season, puts it: “I get a lot of kicks from wearing things that no one else has. ” Her most prized trophy is a unique 1990s John Galliano for Dior dress, a present for a recent birthday. She enjoys the time she spends acquiring one-off pieces. “You don’t have to buy the latest that just came out to be well dressed,” she says.

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Hermès Birkin 40cm handbag in gold Courchevel leather

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Hermès Birkin 35cm handbag in black togo leather

The pandemic has changed our world in countless ways – but perhaps the greatest legacy for fashion is the shift in mindset towards pre-loved products. Farfetch, for example, has been selling much-loved clothing alongside brand-new luxury inventory since 2010, but 2020 marked a clear turning point: the number of second-hand clothing used rose 151% year-over-year, with notable growth from March 2020, when the pandemic took hold. In addition, it recorded a 506 percent increase in sales of second-hand items worth more than $10,000 (£7,253) from Q1 to Q4 of 2020. As Tom Berry, Farfetch’s global director of sustainable business notes, “Our pre- loved curation is not necessarily aimed at an offer at a low price, for us people come for unique items, for great fashion, and it makes them feel better because it is sustainable.” Customers also take advantage of the “Second Life” service, where they can resell their luxury bags in exchange for Farfetch credit.

Jean Paul Gaultier Cyber ​​Dots Mesh Top

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Jean Paul Gaultier Cyber ​​Dots Mesh Polo Top

Net-a-Porter took notes. Last October, it announced a resale pilot with Reflaunt, the technology company behind H&M’s ‘Rewear’ program, which offers customers the chance to sell well-preserved designer items in their wardrobes in exchange for store credit. And at Printemps in Paris, a new 13,000 m² floor was devoted entirely to vintage and second-hand clothing in October, as well as a new buy-back program, reportedly the largest ever in a department store dedicated to second-hand fashion. Marie Blanchet’s Mon Vintage, a high-end vintage service, is the star attraction, with its racks of original Versace bondage suits, Yves Saint Laurent safari dresses and even Jean Paul Gaultier’s cameo necklace from his Spring/Summer 1998 Homage à Frida Kahlo collection, once worn by Madonna in the 1998 music video for ‘Frozen’. “What we manage seems to be on the catwalk now,” says Blanchet. She believes the pandemic has fundamentally changed the way we think about new clothing. “Now it’s all about meaningful purchases. In that sense, vintage is a sustainable signifier. You believe in a story, feel unique and wear pieces that are made to last – the quality of the fabrics is generally unbelievable.”

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Air Jordan 1 Retro High Dior

Gucci wants to join. Hot on the horse bit embellished heels from Ridley Scott’s House of Gucci — starring Lady Gaga and crammed with Gucci looks from the house’s vast archive in Florence, as well as vintage dealers, eBay and Etsy — it launched Vault in September. Billed as an online concept store, it is partially filled with vintage items purchased from Italian grannies and auction houses, overhauled by in-house artisans, and in some cases modified by creative director Alessandro Michele.

Vault is a no-brainer for the vintage-obsessed Michele: its beloved pieces reinforce the seasonless codes on which he built his Gucci reboot. As he put it in an interview at the launch of Vault: “Gucci turns 100 this year, and it’s time to show everyone how wonderful it would be to give a second, a third, and more to old ones. things that are the most beautiful. After successfully reissuing Jackie’s archive bags, Horsebit 1955 and bamboo-treated Diana bags in recent years to monstrous sales, revisiting Gucci’s 1990s hits from the Tom Ford era for his centenary Aria collection, it won’t feel like much to resell a piece for Michele and CEO Marco Bizzarri. After all, it won’t have escaped your notice that Prada’s recent decision to reissue its signature nylon handbags from the 1990s and 2000s has resulted in the originals increasing in value by about 174 percent, according to Rebag.

Read more: The 10 most important spring/summer trends of 2022 to know now


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